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What about this year? Will the Crown return to its conventional approach of creating watches with incremental changes or continue with the trend of creating visually captivating designs? Well, we spoke to the experts in the industry who weighed in with more specific predictions. And, this is what they had to say –

Expert Projections For New Rolex Releases In 2024

1. “Rolex are experts at keeping secrets” – Joshua Ganjei, CEO & Head Curator of European Watch Company

Joshua Ganjei, the CEO and head curator of the European Watch Company, said what we have all been noticing for quite some time now—Rolex is an expert at keeping secrets, and the truth is that nobody really knows what the brand is going to do—ever!

However, Joshua expects Rolex to add some new dials or bracelet options to the existing models, as some manufacturing modifications may generate substantial sales. He also expects the discontinuation of some models, like the Le Mans Daytona with a black dial or the Deepsea Challenge in titanium. As these watches had quite an iconic introduction, a sudden discontinuation will send a shock wave through the industry.

2. “Improved version of an existing model”- William Massena, Founder of Massena LAB

The founder of Massena LAB, William Massena, made a firm statement, saying that Grandpa Rolex will crawl back to doing what it knows the best, introducing an improved version of an existing model, maybe on the Oyster Perpetual lineup. This surprise might occur in the newly launched 1908 collection. Also, we can expect Rolex to add some new references and expand the catalogue.

Another thing we can only hope for is that the big brand uses titanium in the Oyster Perpetual professional collection, as many collectors are looking forward to it. However, chances are timid as Rolex is known to be relatively slow when evolving that line.

3. “Revitalising the timeless Rolex classics” - Eugene Tutunikov, CEO of SwissWatchExpo

Rolex created a lot of frenzy in 2023 with its out-of-the-box releases. As a result, the anticipation surrounding Rolex releases in 2024 is significantly high, with collectors expecting similar innovations. Considering the previous year’s trend, Eugene Tutunikov, CEO of SwissWatchExpo, shares that in 2024, Rolex might revitalise some of its classic timepieces with innovative features and vibrant colour schemes. This could mean introducing new hues or novel materials to the traditional models to enhance the aesthetic appeal and durability.

Not to forget that 2024 marks the 70th anniversary of the Rolex GMT-Master, that made its debut in 1954. Therefore, to commemorate this milestone, Rolex will release special editions that pay homage to this iconic piece. Given Rolex’s inclination towards creating everything exclusive and luxurious, collectors can well anticipate the release of exciting Rolex GMT-Master variations, possibly in platinum or gold, this year. According to Tutunikov, a new iteration of the GMT-Master II may be on the cards, perhaps featuring the famous black and red ‘Coke’ bezel. Rolex can also add a fresh dimension by crafting this iconic timepiece in a precious metal that hasn’t been used before.

That’s not all. Tutunikov added that he expects a new Rolex watch to celebrate the legendary Submariner released at Baselworld in 1954. He hopes the new variation is made of precious metals like platinum or has red text on the dial, which was last observed in the 1970s. 

4. “Rolex Daytona with a champlevé enamel dial” - Paul Boutros, Phillips’ deputy chairman and head of watches, Americas

Now, this is a big one. Paul Boutros anticipates that Rolex will reintroduce the Rolex Daytona Rainbow with Calibre 4131, launched in 2023. But this time, they will add it as a fun off-catalogue option with a stunning champlevé enamel dial. The design will be created using the technique applied to last year’s Day-Date Puzzle.

5. “An updated Rolex GMT-Master II Coke” - Paul Altieri, Founder and CEO of Bob’s Watches

Paul predicts an updated Rolex GMT-Master II ‘Coke’ Ref. 126710BLRO in the coming days, as the current model has been in production for almost six to seven years, which implies a fresh version of the model. However, Paul added that one must not expect any major aesthetic departure from the famous bi-directional bezel. Rolex may endorse some technical enhancements or a new Calibre to improve the power reserve. He hopes the Submariner gets a size revamp from 40mm to a size that better aligns with the 41mm models.

The GMT-Master collection is in the limelight this season. So, an updated Coke would surely be a highlight release.

6.  “Discontinue the Pepsi & release a Coke GMT” - Henry Flores, Founder of the Classic Watch Club in New York City

Henry Flores says that he spoke to some authorised dealers about Rolex and found out that the dealers have hardly encountered any Pepsi GMTs throughout the last year and the early days of this year. So, maybe Rolex plans to get it down the shelf and instead release a ‘Coke’ GMT with a black and red bezel. Also, they might streamline the case sizes of all GMT watches to be more like the Submariner and add a Rolex Daytona Rainbow in the new case size.

7. “Shift attention back to the classics”- Giovanni Prigigallo, Co-Founder of EveryWatch

Enough of seeking attention with unconventional releases, Giovanni expects Rolex to shift attention back to the timeless classics, and he wouldn’t be surprised if the Crown brand breathes new life into the Submariner, as a new update is long due to this iconic lineup. He feels that the GMT catalogue may welcome some exciting changes. Like, Rolex may discontinue the Pepsi bezel and introduce something fresh in its place. Prigigallo’s final wish is that Rolex releases a new Milgauss model inspired by the original Ref. 6541. This move will mark a fantastic comeback of the iconic classics!

8. “Return of the iconic GMT-Master II Coke” - Eddie Goziker, President of Wrist Aficionado

Eddie Goziker has a lot of takes on this year’s Rolex releases. Starting with the GMT-Master II ‘Coke’, Eddie anticipates the Rolex GMT-Master II ‘Coke’ returns with the iconic black and red bezel. Next, he feels the left-handed GMT-Master II ‘Sprite’ should go down now. Rolex is not a keeper of funky left-handed watches in their catalogue, and it should be back to the regular right-handed pieces.

Moving on to Daytona, Eddie foresees the return of the meteorite dial. He also added that Rolex may release gold Daytona models with colourful dials to bring a refreshing change to the monochromatic design. Fans have always admired colourful Daytona models, so it makes sense for Rolex to get them back to elevate Daytona sales.

Lastly, for the Sea-Dweller and Submariner collections, Goziker hopes that Rolex releases steel models with the popular Oysterflex bracelets, catering to the wishes of sports enthusiasts who seek a rubber-clad option. Some other possibilities include a white gold ‘Hulk’ or a gold Submariner with a popular olive-shade dial.

9. “See Rolex’s tried-and-true formulas in full force” - Geoff Hess, Sotheby’s Head of Watches for the Americas and Founder of RollieFest

Geoff Hess predicts that Rolex will stick to its unparalleled track record of focusing on tried-and-true formulas this year. Modifications may be made to the existing models. We usually think of dramatic alterations when it comes to innovation or changes. However, Rolex has shown remarkable consistency in recent years by introducing only slight enhancements to the existing designs.

Rolex will present an evolution rather than a revolution in 2024. As all eyes are on the Rolex GMT-Master II this year, let’s see what the Crown brand has in store for its dedicated fans and followers.