MissLJBeauty

Native American jewelry is renowned for its connection to tradition, the materials used, the techniques used to create it, the precious stones incorporated, and the meaningful symbols carved into its surface. Turquoise, silver, coral, and shell have been part of Native American design for generations. Today, many of these traditional styles are still handmade, using methods that date back hundreds of years.

From detailed silver cuffs to polished Native American pendants, Native jewelry exhibits detailed handwork. This review highlights ten pieces of jewelry that are often seen in both personal collections and galleries.

1. Squash Blossom Necklace

This necklace is one of the most recognized pieces. You will often see it in museum collections, galleries, and vintage markets. The design is associated with Navajo silversmiths from the late 1800s. The centerpiece is called the Naja, a crescent-shaped design inspired by Spanish and Moorish styles. The silver forms along the strand resemble flower petals, which is why the piece is called a squash blossom necklace.

Most necklaces are made with turquoise from mines like Sleeping Beauty, Kingman, or Morenci. Older necklaces often feature untreated turquoise with visible matrix lines or slight color changes over time.

2. Zuni Cluster Rings

Zuni cluster rings feature small, hand-cut stones that are arranged in balanced shapes. These designs feature a circular or oval center stone surrounded by a ring of matching turquoise or coral. The Zuni are known for precise stonework in small-scale pieces. Each stone is shaped to fit tightly in place, creating clean, symmetrical patterns.

These rings are usually set in sterling silver with thin bezels with a minimalist style. Turquoise is the most commonly used stone in Zuni rings, but some designs include red coral, jet, or shell. Older rings may exhibit signs of age, such as silver patina or color variation in the stones.

3. Kingman Turquoise Bracelet

The Kingman turquoise comes from one of the oldest turquoise mines in the United States. These mines are located in Arizona. Kingman turquoise is renowned for its vibrant blue color, accompanied by black or golden matrix patterns. Some stones are left in natural shapes, and others are used to fit the cluster or inlay designs.

The variety makes them popular with both collectors and casual buyers. Most bracelets are made in cuff form using sterling silver. Navajo artists often use heavier silver with stamped or repoussé detailing, while Zuni artists may focus on stone layout and symmetry.

4. Tufa Cast Rings

Tufa cast rings are created using the traditional casting method. In this method, a design is carved into a block of volcanic stone called tufa. Once the design is ready, molten silver is formed into the mold. The result is a ring with a slightly rough finish that highlights the handmade process.

This casting method is most commonly used by Navajo silversmiths. Because the tufa stone breaks down over time, each mold can only be used a few times. That makes every piece slightly different, even when the design is repeated. Tufa cast rings can be seen with raised patterns or featuring stones like turquoise or coral incorporated into the design. Some designs stay simple, showing only the texture of the silver from the casting.

5. Hopi Overlay Pendants

The Hopi overlay technique uses two layers of silver for more detailed and symbolic designs. The top layer is cut with patterns, then soldered onto a darkened bottom layer, which creates a contrast in the design. This gives the pendant depth without relying on stones. The most frequently seen themes include rain, sun, clouds, animals, and other elements from Hopi culture.

Each shape holds meaning, and most jewelry features designs that have been passed down through generations. Unlike stone-based pendants, Hopi overlay pieces have clean lines and strong composition. The finish is usually matte or lightly polished, and highlights the shapes and patterns.

6. Navajo Pearls

Navajo pearls are handmade, sterling silver beads. They are strung into necklaces or used as spacers in other jewelry. Each bead is shaped, domed, soldered, and polished by hand, which gives the strand a textured, handmade quality. The size and finish are unique and depend on the artist's touch. Some beads are high-polished, while others are oxidized to create contrast. When finished, they are strung into one or more strands and often worn alone or layered.

Unlike many stone-based designs, Navajo pearls focus on silverwork. They are simple in concept; however, the work that goes into creating a single piece requires high skill and experience. Many pieces use graduated beads, where the sizes increase toward the center. These necklaces are versatile. They go well with pendants, but can also stand out when worn as-is.

7. Multi-Strand Heishi Necklaces

Heishi necklaces are made from small, hand-shaped beads cut from shell, turquoise, coral, etc. The beads are rounded and polished to form smooth strands. After that, they are layered to create a full, balanced finish. Multi-stand style has roots in Pueblo jewelry-making, especially among the Kewa Pueblo (formerly Santo Domingo). Artists traditionally used shell and stone fragments, shaping each bead by hand.

Modern versions of these necklaces still utilize the same method with improved tools. Multi-strand Heishi necklaces usually feature color variation between layers, often achieved through the use of natural materials or a combination of turquoise shades. Some include accent stones or silver beads spaced throughout.

8. Zuni Inlay Earrings

Zuni inlay earrings feature a clean, mosaic-like design made from small stone pieces. Turquoise, coral, jet, and shell are frequently used materials that are cut into required shapes and fitted into sterling silver settings. Each pair is handmade, with meticulous attention to the shape and placement of the stones. Most designs are geometric, but some follow patterns inspired by sunfaces, birds, or other figures associated with Zuni beliefs.

The surface is smooth and polished, giving each piece a flat, finished appearance. Unlike cluster styles, inlay focuses on uniform spacing and pattern rather than height or texture.

9. Zuni Needlepoint Jewellery

Needlepoint jewellery uses long, narrow stones set in uniform, similar patterns. Each stone is hand-cut and shaped into thin, pointed forms that resemble needles. They are typically arranged in rows, fans, or a flower pattern. The needlepoint style is specific to Zuni artists and is considered one of the most detailed forms of traditional stone setting. The stones are usually turquoise but can also include coral or jet.

Each piece is backed by silver, with bezels holding the stones in place. Needlepoint designs are used in rings, cuffs, pendants, and earrings. The pieces are often light and detailed, with a uniform design.

10. Storyteller Bracelets

Storyteller bracelets feature detailed silver panels that showcase designs inspired by traditions or stories. The designs in these bracelets are often stamped or overlaid onto the surface. This style is most often seen in Navajo and Hopi work. Some bracelets show people tending sheep, children playing, or dancers in ceremonial dress. Others use patterns like corn, animals, or the sun to show themes of growth, family, or spiritual life.

These pieces reflect the artist’s own experience and heritage. Unlike most jewellery, which focuses on form, these bracelets are meant to tell a story, which is where the name comes from